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Sunday, November 20

Today was, for the lack of a better word, cool. Mostly because we all went hang gliding! Ryan talked me into it because I was really scared about how dangerous it is and knowing that people have died (as if people haven't also died from driving cars or walking along the street). Malia was skeptical also so I thought it would just be Karen and Ryan partaking, but Malia changed her mind and I didn't want to be the only one not participating... and I'm really glad I wasn't.

To ensure safety they only let pilots fo 4 flights per day (smart), and by the time we got to the spot of departure most were already booked, or had already completed their 4 flights. So our guide went to look for pilots while we sat on the grass enjoying the weather and watching people land from hang/para gliding. Finally our guide found 4 pilots, himself included, and we filled out some paperwork before being split up. Karen, Malia, and Ryan went up the mountain together while I was stuck waiting for my pilot, aka our guide, who was still talking to other customers. By the time we started up the mountain I was sure everyone had already left and I was getting really nervous. The second we parked I ran up the steps to the takeoff platform just in time to see Ryan before he took off para gliding. Holy crap! Para gliding and hang gliding takeoffs are terrifying looking! Moreso hang gliding but para gliding isn't that much fun either I imagine. For para gliding you're basically sitting on your instructor and you take off by letting the wind pick up your sail. It was super windy today so takeoffs looked slightly violent. For my takeoff I was about to pee myself. I had to run off of a wooden platform right over the edge of the cliff. My pilot prepped me on how to run and how to hold onto his suit (he holds onto the glider), and after waiting for the wind to be just right, I was running and up in the air before I could figure out what happened. Being in the air was awesome compared to the takeoff! Flying tha thigh was such a rush and deifnitely the coolest thing (and most daring thing) I've done to date. The entire flight lasted about 10 minutes and we landed on the beach right where Ryan, Karen, and Malia were waiting. I'm really glad that Ryan convinced me to step out of my comfort zone and experience something as crazy as hang gliding over Rio de Janeiro.



The rest of the day we spent at a local soccer game between Botafogo (we cheered for them) and Internacional. Unfortunately Internacional won, 2-1, but the match was a ton of fun. The fans were crazy with their cheering and chanting.. very intense. For dinner we went to a Brazilian steakhouse finally! We all agreed we should have eaten there every single night. I have never eaten so much meat before in my life, and I'm not sure how Ryan walked home after eating the amount he did. This was our last day in Rio and I feel like we did every little thing we could have with the time we gave ourselves. Rio is an incredible city and I think we experienced the best of it.

Rio de Janeiro

Our South America trip was everything I wanted it to be. Our group had an unbelievable time exploring 3 different countries over 9 days, starting with the beautiful Rio de Janeiro, Brazil.

Friday, November 18

We left DC and SF on Thursday, met up for our connecting flight in Dallas, and continued on together, arriving in Brazil Friday morning. Once we landed we took a taxi straight to our hostel (Hostel Harmonia) right off of Ipanema Beach. This was my first experience staying in a hostel, and I have to say I was pleasantly surprised. Not that I expected it to be a negative experience, but Hostel Harmonia was clean, cozy, and had extremely friendly staff. We wasted no time after arriving and booked a favela tour for the afternoon. I had no clue what a favela was and on the way there Ryan asked me if I knew where we were going. I told him I thought we were seeing a school and he laughed and said "No, we're going to the slums of Rio." Favelas are shacks alongside mountainsides where poor people live (shanty towns).


Our tour guide explained to us that there is a constant tension between people in the favelas and people in the city because favela residents don't pay taxes, there is no police presence in them, and they are run by drug lords. The head drug lord was actually caught two weekends prior to our visit so the police had started occupying the favela we toured.

Police force outside of favela

It was crazy to walk through it because it's so different from my life and where I come from. The favela was a huge maze of makeshift houses with narrow passageways in between. It was incredibly unsanitary and up until a couple of weeks ago, extremely dangerous. Even though I was skeptical of the tour at first, I'm glad we went because favelas are a huge part of the Rio population and people tend to turn a blind eye to them when it is something that should not be ignored and a problem that is always going to be there until someone can come up with a housing solution for the poor. The rest of our first full day in Rio was spent walking along Ipanema beach and enjoying the scenary.

Saturday, November 19



We woke up fairly early and walked quite a ways to some Botanical Gardens on Saturday. They were peaceful and beautiful even if we only stayed briefly. Even though it was raining that morning, we booked the huge 5-hour tour of Rio anyways because we didn't want to gamble on the weather the rest of our time in Rio. There were about 13 people or so on our tour total for the afternoon. The tour really didn't hold back because the first stop was Christ the Redeemer! We drove (a little crazy) up the mountain to get to it, and then took an elevator, and escalator the remainder of the way. Just as we got up to the top the fog started rolling in, so we took a few quick shots of us in front of the statue and then everything went completely white. It was unfortunate because we only had 30 minutes up there and for 20 of them everyting was covered in fog. Luckily, 5 minutes before we had to go back down to meet our guide, the fog lifted and we were able to get a few more pictures of all of us in front of Christ. The view from up there was amazing, when the fog was clear. It goes without saying that this Wonder of the World is a must see if you visit Rio. The view alone is enough to amaze you. Add a towering statue that protects the city and it's well worth your time.


The next stop on our tour was the town of Saint Theresa. I suck at paying attention so I do not remember the significance of the town besides its use of trolley cars, and we honestly didn't stay there very long before moving to the next site, a gigantic modern church, Catedral Metropolitana. The outside was not attractive at all in my opinion, kind of a huge brown cone with the top cut off, but the inside was beautiful. Stain glass panels covered the walls and the pews were set up in a circular fashion surrounding an altar with a hanging Crucifix.

I have seen a lot of beautiful churches (even just on this trip) and Catedral Metropolitana was unlike anything I've ever seen. After the church we drove to Escadaria Selaron, a staircase designed by artist Jorge SelarĂ³n.


He found a set of stairs in 1990 that were run down, dirty, and decided to take tiles that he had collected from around the world and decorate the space. We found San Francisco tiles, Peru tiles, a Qatar tile, and an Ohio tile. The last stop on our trip was Sugar Loaf Mountain. A suspended car took us up one mountain and then another one took us all the way up to the summit of Sugar Loaf. From the top we could see everything in Rio -- Christ the Redeemer, Ipanema Beach, Copacabana Beach, and the entire city. Just like Christ the Redeemer, the view was breath taking... and there was more room to walk around than atop Christ's mountain. We enjoyed some delicious cheese bread balls at the top before heading back down.


Our tour didn't end until 5:00 so by the time we got back to Harmonia we decided to take a nap before dinner we were so tired. Our dinner consisted of crappy "hamburgers" that I'm convinced were secretly meatloaf, but afterwards we took the advice of the staff and went to see samba! BEST. DECISION. EVER. We took a long taxi ride to the middle of nowhere, which made us a little nervous, and ended up at this building that was just a huge room with all of the lights on. There was a live band playing but mostly people sitting or standing around eating and drinking. No one was dancing and it was kind of strange at first because it obviously was not like any club in the U.S. THEN the dancers came out and started performing. Holy crap those girls were wearing next to nothing! I saw so many butts and partial boobs it was unbelievable. I have never seen samba before and their legs were moving so fast. The entire experience was fantastic, between the dancers, and the live music, and the audience participating, and the four of us did not return to our hostel until very late (or early depending on how you look at it). Probably the most packed day we had during our trip I would say. But the best part of Rio is coming up!

Next Adventure!

I am psyched! In 1 week I will be heading to South America with Ryan Knowles, Karen Cyb, and Malia Wycoff for 9 days. We are flying to Rio de Janeiro, Brazil first, then moving onto Montevideo, Uruguay for a short stay, then ending our trip in Buenos Aires, Argentina. The idea to travel there started because Ryan's cousin is currently studying abroad in Buenos Aires. He loves to take advantage of people he knows living in crazy locations and uses it as an excuse to travel (and it's a great excuse)! Our Buenos Aires trip quickly turned into a "more than one country" trip to try and see as much as possible.

I cannot wait to write about what we do and the incredible things we will inevitably see along the way.

That time I got sick

Or rather, the times I got sick. I told you never to eat egg salad sandwiches in Peru and I meant it. There was a small local restaurant called Otre Cosa near our house that had awesome cushions to sit on and an attached store with postcards and random Peruvian trinkets. A group of us went there one afternoon close to the end of our trip and I ordered egg salad because that is (was now) my favorite kind of sandwich. It came out looking all delicious on its grainy wheat bread and tasted just as it looked.

Fast forward to the following day when that sandwich decided to wreak havoc on my body. Long story short, I did not go into Ciudad de Dios for a few days. Instead I laid in my bed at the house while Robby brought me tea and crackers every few hours. We would have conversed more but seeing as how he only spoke Spanish and I only spoke English, communication was limited and probably ridiculous sounding when attempted. I did manage to get out of bed one of those days to go down the street and get chicken soup that Robby said would make me feel better. There were parts of chicken in that soup that I don't ever care to know where they came from. After a few days I went back to Ciudad to finish up my plaza mural and the town sign, but the very next day I was sick again. I stayed in bed and drank Cipro and some powder mixed with water that tastes like the ocean (DISGUSTING!).

I practically missed the entire last week of work in Ciudad, which was a bummer. All of my journal entires for those days sound something like this: "I hate being sick. I can't eat anything but I'm really hungry.... I can't sleep because it hurts too much."

Man, I was really whiny.

Fourth of July

July 4th finally came, and even though Peruvians weren't celebrating it, we certainly were! We got off of work, so instead of laying around the house all day we went to Chan Chan, capital of the Chimu empire. It was incredible! Walking around listening to a guide tell us about this culture was worth seeing/hearing. Some awesome pictures from our tour...











That night we had a cookout at Nourish International's Hospedaje. Professor Billman grilled hamburgers and we had guacamole, fresh vegetables, and french fries (I ate a TON of french fries while in Peru). It was all delicious, and afterwards we all went down to the beach and lit fireworks. They were mildly successful... as successful as on can imagine Peruvian fireworks are. The archaeology students had a bonfire going so we joined them in making smores and hanging out. We played a huge game of capture the flag... and if you've never played capture the flag on a wide, open beach, it's hard! It comes down to who is the fastest because there isn't anything you can hide behind. Not to mention running on sand slows you down quite a bit. Still, we had a good time and a fun day of honoring our country's independence.

 
**Thinking back, I feel like we should have at least sang the national anthem or something...

Vacation in Peru!

A few weeks before we said goodbye to Peru, our group got the chance to visit Cajamarca. The 8 hour bus ride there was terrifying because most of it consisted of winding through mountainsides on a double decker bus that was extremely top heavy. We made it safely though, and the hotel, San Vicente, was amazing. We stayed in a glorified tree house carved in the side of a hill overlooking the city.





View from our hotel


The first full day we were in Cajamarca, Magdalena, Justine, Ellie, and I didn't waste any time.. we went straight to the hot springs. It wasn't too expensive, and we were given a room with what was basically a huge bath. So we pretty much just took a bath together in our swim suits for 30 minutes in water that is apparently really great for your skin. After that experience, we went shopping around the town. Cajamarca is fairly large with many little shops to explore and alleys with craft stalls set up. I managed to pick up gifts for friends and family that day.


Hot springs!

I made an interesting note in my journal about our trip that the constellations looked enormous from our hotel. Staying in Huanchaco, we hadn't been able to see stars because of light pollution, but in Cajamarca the sky was beautiful and clear. If you're in Peru, definitely take a trip to this gorgeous city.



Our room (we had to use large, heavy blankets because the temperature dropped at night.. unlike in Huanchaco where it was warm all day/night)


Or bus ride back after 3 days in Cajamarca was brutal because sickness decided to set in. Good thing we went on the trip when we did.

Digging

Some pictures from the digging we spent 8 weeks doing


Carrying pipe to be laid at the next point in the line


Supporting the pipe with rocks underneath and backfilling overtop


Locals using tools to extract a large rock from the water line path

Guac

During our time there, Rosa was the best cook. She made a DELICIOUS chocolate cake, and also some kick ass guacamole. Here is the recipe I wrote down in my journal (in case I ever felt like trying to make it at home... which has yet to happen).


1 avacado
1 tomato
1 lime
1 onion
salt

1. Peel tomato. Cut into quarters. Remove mushy stuff (very eloquent I know). Cut into small bits.
2. Peel and cut onion into small bits.
3. Cut lime in half and squeeze into bowl.
4. Add tomato, onion, salt to the lime
5. Cut avacado into quarters. Remove seed
6. Peel skin off, mush with fork
7. Mix into tomato concoction.

Done!

Assembly Line

One day in June we didn't go into Ciudad de Dios. Instead we went to where the springbox would be located up from the town that would filter the water. To construct the springbox we had to haul sand and gravel from the dropoff point to the box, which were not next to each other. We formed a chain and passed the buckets down it until it reached the box. I was exhausted doing this work because the buckets were quite heavy and awkward to carry. Compared to the digging and laying pipe this work was more difficult to me.

Tacky up the Mural

After being in Peru for a couple of weeks, we were informed that a group of students from UNC would be joining us. They were part of the Nourish International group and all of us worked on the water line together. I would be lying if I said there wasn't tension between the groups (and definitely some run-ins that made for interesting stories), but overall we got along and having the extra hands digging was welcome.


Before we got into the bulk of the digging, I was given the chance to accompany some of the Peruvian professional engineers to survey the water route, which was great for me. The skills I learned at Duke were being put to use (minimally) and that is a satisfying feeling. We also plastered the main wall of the plaza in the middle of Ciudad de Dios to prep it for mural painting. This was one of our community beautification projects, along with creating signs for them designating it as more than just temporary.



The completed mural that I designed in the plaza



Forgotten

The first job I was a part of after we were introduced to Ciudad was helping evaluate the existing water quality (they got their current water after it already traveled through other communities). I worked with Maggie and Carrie in Menocucho to test the streams that fed into the water supply. One day while doing this, the Professor in charge of MOCHE (Professor Billman) forgot to pick us up and take us back to Ciudad de Dios. So instead, we walked about 1.5 km towards the community along the main road and then took a combi the rest of the way. It was quite an experience, especially the combi ride. Combis are very small vans that work like buses. They pick up people at stops and then when you need to get off you pay and get off. Well the one we were one decided it wanted to be a clown car and pack as many people as humanly possible into it. By the time we got back to Ciudad, we only had time to collect water samples from the taps in town.


The next day we did the same testing in the morning, and in the afternoon we were given the opportunity to make adobe bricks. It basically consisted of putting mud into a mold and letting it dry for 15 days. The entire process was "extremely tiring" (according to my journal entry), but I also noted it was a lot of fun. Not every day do you get to make bricks that will be used to construct houses and schools. Since there were so many of us working, we finished early and left Ciudad de Dios by 2:45 PM. Not too many exciting or new things were taking place around that time... and really throughout our trip our daily activities remained fairly constant. I'll write about certain changes in our routine and trips we took/experiences we had that were different from our normal day-to-day happenings.

Try this! Or not...


Dos and Donts while in Peru

If you ever find yourself in Peru, in my opinion these are some DOS and DONTS that you should definitely follow:

1. DO take a surfing lesson. I didn't do this with most of the group and regret not taking the opportunity to put on a crazy looking wet suit and show off my mad balance skills in the ocean so that all the locals could laugh at me.


I told you everyone looked silly


2. DON'T eat egg salad sandwiches. They look so delicious and might even taste delicious. but 2 days later your body will be screaming at you for accepting Peruvian food not prepared by your awesome house cook who knows that Americans cannot consume Peruvian water or anything that has touched it! more on that later...

3. DO befriend the people living where you are. Everyone we met in Huanchaco had amazing stories to tell us about surfing and traveling. Our cab driver during our scavenger hunt told us about his 70 roosters that he uses for cock fights. You just don't get that in the U.S.


Us out one night in Huanchaco. Unfortunately I didn't have a picture with any of the locals we met


4. DON'T buy anything full price in local markets. Barter until you can get a more reasonable price for what is being sold.

5. DO drink their milkshakes. I practically lived on vanilla milkshakes.. although one time I got a banana one because apparently my "vanilla" sounded like "banana"

6. DO attempt to travel to other parts of Peru. It's huge! Unfortunately we didn't get to visit Machu Picchu or go on any hikes while we were there. I would love to go back and experience those things sometime in the future.

7. DON'T kick a cactus. Just don't.

Kickin it in Peru

Finally the day arrived that we drove to Ciudad de Dios to meet the community we would be working alongside for 8 weeks. It was exciting, mostly due to the fact that we had been sitting around for what seemed like forever in Peru not doing what we came there to do. Don't get me wrong, I loved exploring and getting up with my roommates who insisted on 3-mile-long runs in the morning but I was slightly anxious to get to the dang Ciudad already!

When we arrived we were immediately greeted mobbed by the children and a ridiculous amount of stray dogs. They were fascinated with us (dogs included), and we were fascinated by them... their bare feet, dirty faces, huge smiles, and their sugar cane snacks.



So stinking cute, right?

All of the houses in ciudad were built by hand from adobe bricks ("dictionary defines these as: a natural building material made from sand, clay, water and some kind of fibrous or organic material (sticks, straw and/or manure), which the builders shape into bricks using frames and dry in the sun"), and they had one water spicket in the middle of the town "plaza". For a squatter community though, they were fairly lucky in that they had their own schoolhouse with latrines (well, holes in the ground), and an organized layout of houses throughout the area. That day we met community members and played soccer with the kids. Lots of people talked to me in Spanish because, hey if you come to Peru you better know some Spanish right? Yeaaaa..I just nodded because I had absolutely no clue what they were saying to me. It was embarassing at first but after a while I got used to speaking in broken sentences and only being able to understand the general gist of what was said to me (and repeated over and over).

Adobe bricks waiting to be turned into a house

My initial reactions to Ciudad de Dios were... well I'm not sure. I think it was so overwhelming I forgot to take note of everything I was thinking and feeling. I do remember thinking that Ciudad de Dios was a lot nicer with a lot more houses than I had imagined. To say they had completely different lives than us would be the understatement of the year, and I found myself observing without processing more than anything.



We had been told before going there that some countries and people do not take kindly to Americans coming in a "fixing" things for them, so we should be prepared in case that was true there. If they felt that way, they certainly didn't show it. Everyone was extremely excited to have us there and eager to help in any way possible. That included digging trenches alongside us with shovels that looked like they were made for 5 year olds. Despite the size of their shovels (and themselves for that matter. Peruvians are some small peoples! I felt at home), they put my shoveling skills, or lack therof, to shame. In fact I frequently found myself being laughed at because of the sheer number of breaks I needed to not keel over and pass out. That's another thing I learned on this trip... I am fairly weak and my body does not take to manual labor very well. so 8 weeks of digging trenches in peru? piece of cake....

I couldn't resist one more picture of my favorite little boy

Sidenote: I have found in both of my spanish-speaking country experiences that the children are the most fun and interesting to talk to. Mostly because they patiently teach you the language and understand if you don't conjugate verbs correctly or use the right pronouns. Yes, they laugh, but I would laugh too if I listened to someone speak English as bad as I spoke Spanish. Is that mean? When I flip it around it seems means. Oh well, the teasing didn't bother me. Not even when our housekeeper's son would ask me to read the newspaper because he (along with everyone else) thought my pronunciation was hilarious. Haha let's all watch Brianne butcher the Spanish language and laugh at her while she does it! Yup, didn't bother me one bit.

Chanfles!

I left for Peru in May of 2008, just after finishing up my Sophomore year at Duke. Our group consisted of all Duke students (mostly engineers), and a Duke Spanish Teacher, Joan. We flew to Lima from the U.S. and stayed at Hostal Torreblanca. It was a small hotel, but very clean and well kept. My journal starts a week into our busy trip so according to my first entry (May 20) we spent the day in downtown Lima, visiting sites like the President's residence, and then touring La Villa el Salvador -- a squatter community that has grown tremendously in the past few decades. While touring we sat down with the locals and despite the language and cultural barriers, they were more than hospitable. It was amazing to see the pride these people had in their community and what they had built with hard work.


Hostal Torreblanca

The next day we left Lima and went to see a monument called El Ojo que llora, The Eye that Cries. We were fortunate enough to meet with the artist who designed it, and she explained how the victims of the Shining Path terror are written on stones surrounding the main rock. The monument was quite powerful, especially when you read the stones and saw how young some of the people were who were killed. Afterwards, we got back on our bus and drove 3 hours to another hostal in Barranca by the ocean.


El Ojo que llora Monument


The following day we arrived to our ultimate destination, Huanchaco. Huanchaco was a beautiful town right next to the ocean, and we stayed in a house all together. Our volunteer work was being done in Ciudad de Dios, which was an hour bus ride away, but we could not stay there because they had no running water (purpose of our trip) and no electricity (they received it right after we left!). Looking back, it was nice to be living in a house with the entire group instead of being split up between local families, which was the living arrangement of another DukeEngage Peru trip. I dealt with a lot of homesick issues during my stay in Peru, and having the group there was a huge help.. especially since my Spanish was limited to Hola and Como estas. I did quickly learn, however, how to say "Can I use the telephone to call the U.S?"


The gorgeous city of Huanchaco, Peru

The first part of the week we were in Huanchaco, we spent exploring the city and getting to know every person in our group. I brushed up on my Spanish with the help of my Duke friend, Magdalena, as well as our housekeeper's son, Robby. We also took a day trip to the city of Trujillo to tour. It is a much bigger city than Huanchaco and has a busy feel to it. In Huanchaco, the beach was right down the block from our house so we spent a lot of time walking around by the water and observing people who live there. The day before going into Ciudad de Dios we split up into groups and went on a scavenger hunt in Huanchaco and Trujillo. Some items we had to take pictures of included "el coliseo de los gallos entre Huanchaco y Trujillo" (cock fighting), "la torta mas bonita en Trujillo" (pretty cake), and "una combi" (a type of car/minivan in Peru). It really helped us understand the area geographically and work on interacting with Peruvians.


Our entire group, including MOCHE leaders, and our Peruvian family

Next stop, CIUDAD DE DIOS!

Travel

In high school I was fortunate enough to take my first serious, out-of-the country trip to Honduras. I went with my church youth group to help build a running water system for a small village. We were there for two weeks and it was quite an experience. Between church services in Spanish, to getting sick, to digging trench all day, I definitely soaked up the culture in the short time we were there.


At the end of high school I went to Hong Kong with my family to visit my Grandpa, and two uncles... and I loved it! The jet lag, on the other hand, I did not love and it kicked my ass. I was falling asleep in the middle of the day and staring at the ceiling wide awake at night. While in Hong Kong, we got to visit the Chinese University of Hong Kong, where my mom went to college. We also got to see where my Grandma's ashes are kept, which was very special to my entire family. The food was incredible, and honestly, I felt like that was all we did. We would wake up and eat breakfast, then sight see for a couple of hours and then it was lunch time. We would spend the afternoons with family and seriously what felt like 10 minutes later, it would be dinner time. Eating with your family is very important in Chinese culture, and meals can last for hours. They like to eat slowly and yell very loudly to each other. I don't understand how asians are so small when they eat so much! I'm hoping to go back to Hong Kong (and maybe mainland China) with my mom this year.

While in college, my biggest trip was to Peru after my Sophomore year. I went with the DukeEngage program for 8 weeks. We lived in Huanchaco and worked in Ciudad de Dios, a squatter community that we rode a bus to every day. Our partner organization was MOCHE, led by a UNC Professor, and a group of UNC students volunteering like we were. Together we built a 3-km water system, and also worked on "public works" projects that included painting a mural and a community sign. My next post will detail my time in Peru, complete with the personal (and not personal) challenges I faced throughout my time there.

Up until now

In my life, I've had many diaries and many journals. They contain everything I've ever felt or experienced and are unique to me. Unfortunately a lot of trips I've taken or things I've done have never been shared, and as I get older I find comfort in knowing that there are people in the world who have gone through what I have, or seen what I've seen. I want to put my life's important events, people, and places out there, and perhaps others will feel what I feel when I read blogs.. inspired, comforted, motivated. Knowing there is so much in the world that I can experience and affect puts my problems in perspective and helps keep me focused on making the most of everything I'm lucky enough to have.